Travelogue by: Patricia Petersson-O’Connell (Johannesburg) May 2010
MAY 2010 – ‘LIGHT OF GREECE’ CRUISE TO GREECE AND TURKEY
If you are looking for an adventure why not try an inaugural cruise? –
and if you are looking for even more of a thrill - experience the very first cruise of the inaugural season.
This is what we did, and we loved it.
Voyages to Antiquity – cruises to classical civilisation 2010.
Chairman Gerry Herrod and MD David Yellow brought out this amazing brochure suggesting that a cruise experience on the MV Aegean Odyssey would ‘open a window into the origins and genius of western civilisation. The cruise was not only about history, but also about some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, and the magnificent food and wine of the Mediterranean’.
The cruise we chose was ‘Light of Greece’ - an Athens to Athens cruise (or a Turkey sandwich if you choose to look at this that way). We left Athens proceeded south to Crete and then north through the Greek Islands and on to the Turkish coastline before returning to Greece and Athens.
MV Aegean Odyssey is a newly refurbished mid-size cruise ship registered in Malta. Our cabin was beautifully clean with a cream coloured carpet and Egyptian cotton sheets. Our cabin steward ‘Nemie’ was an angel and changed towels 2 or 3 times per day and looked after our every need with a permanent smile on his face.
For two weeks the weather was wonderful and sunny. Sometimes there was a little wind, but the ship’s motion was so smooth that it was barely noticeable.
In the evenings there was a free-seating arrangement in the Marco Polo restaurant which provided an excellent waiter-served 4-course meal accompanied by complimentary Cretan wines.
After dinner we would go to the Charleston lounge to listen to the Romanian trio ‘Café Concerto Strings’ who could play anything from classical or gypsy music to rhythmic rumbas. Their playing was so fascinating that it was almost disrespectful to make use of the small dance floor. Later in the evening New Zealander Michael Munro played jazz on the piano up in the Observation deck.
Normally after dinner there was a short lecture by one of the visiting historians – Prof Barbara Barletta (University of Florida), Jasper Gaunt (Emory University Atlanta), Prof James Morwood (Wadham College, Oxford). They were certainly very learned, but lacked a certain pizzazz.
Four university graduates helped on the coach tours by regulating the ‘quietvox’ whisper units, carrying the first aid box, and supplying adequate bottles of water.
The cruise ship had a pool deck with plenty of new loungers, and the pool itself was in fact a large spotlessly clean tank about 1.95 metres deep, with no shallow end. Even though the weather was hot, only once or twice did guests venture into the pool. Despite calm seas, unless you had spent your lifetime practicing yoga, it was almost impossible to get out of the pool without help, because there were only 3 or 4 rungs on the steps, so some of the swimmers floundered like flies floating in a cup of tea, and needed help from the waiters and sun worshippers to get on to dry land again.
In the morning we got up early and breakfasted in the Terrace Café. This café was a self-service arrangement which was used for breakfast (the crispy bacon was delightful), lunch and afternoon tea.
The ship could not moor at all the ports, and sometimes we had to use a tender. Sometimes the manoeuvres were a little awkward – and the hull of the Aegean Odyssey had to be repainted more than once.
Guest Services director – Andrea Coreman tried to help everyone, and really did a great job.
Although the refurbishment of the ship was meant to be completed December 2009, there had been a considerable delay. The curtains and podium in the Ambassador lounge had not arrived, neither had the umbrellas for the lido deck, nor had anyone’s name tag; and the carpet was only laid the day before we embarked. But we managed. The Filipino crew were really fantastic and made us feel most welcome. Austrian Wilhelm and Italian Mauro also were most helpful.
Voyages to Antiquity is aimed at the 40-60+ age group, for people who can manage quite a bit of walking. We were amazed but delighted that on this cruise apart from the individual travellers from England, Argentina, Switzerland, Netherlands and France there were also quite a number of Canadians. The American society ‘Exploritas’ (Educational Travel and Learning Vacations for Adults) brought on a group of about 40 people (or a coachload); and the same number came from AIA (Archeological Institute of America). No single supplement was added to this cruise, which was an added bonus for those travelling solo. The free-seating arrangement in the Marco Polo restaurant enabled us to meet and socialise with a lot of very interesting new friends. There were less than 300 people on board this particular voyage – which was a very comfortable size for cruising.
The individual guides at the various ports of call certainly brought the history of the area very much alive with their entertaining and very knowledgeable accounts. Georgia, Levant, George and Canaan were not only experts in their various fields but they also spoke excellent English.
Next time that I look at a figure in marble – I will check on whether the left leg shows movement, the right fist clenched, check the width of the cloth covering the body of the statue, and look whether there is a perch for the pigeons on the statue’s head etc. I will check to see if the head actually fits the body (body shapes were massed produced, and the head stuck on at a later stage – whereas the Greeks were idealistic, the Romans were realistic).
When I look at a portrait on plaster I will check whether it is painted red or white.
The Greek and Turkish guides also told us many other things including – about their flags, about military service in their various countries (and how the young men often sold their long hair to wigmakers to up to as much as 2500 Euros just prior to doing their service). They told us about retirement plans in the various countries after 10,000 full days of work. The guides really knew their subject well and transmitted the information is such an interesting way. One of our super Greek guides, Georgia, added – unfortunately the Greeks are really chaotic, they are not organised like the Italians!
GREECE ATHENS
Yellow taxis, motorbikes, cell phones and cigarettes, pastry shops and chocolatiers come immediately to mind when thinking of Athens. Athens is expensive, as we found out while strolling through the lively Plaka area of the city.
In early May there were many Public Holidays in Greece and these coincided with daily protest marches. Hotels and banks had their windows smashed and a TV unit received a firebomb. Despite the mess, the streets were cleaned up each day within a few hours.
The Grande Bretagne hotel in Constitution Square (adjacent to the Parliament buildings) must be one of the most luxurious in the world – with two swimming pools, a fabulous spa and unique dining areas. We were lucky enough to stay here prior to our cruise and enjoyed the fabulous views of the Acropolis and downtown Athens from the roof of the hotel.
There are a lot of broken marble steps on the way to the Acropolis, but it’s certainly worth making the trip up to the top. The Parthenon, which was rebuilt by Pericles in the 5th century BC.’ has a magnificent view over the city.
Last year, the 200 million dollar New Acropolis Museum opened, where floors of glass literally ‘float’ you above the excavations. The museum really is a ‘must’ for anyone visiting Athens, and of course there is the endless debate about the Parthenon marbles.
CAPE SOUNION (optional tour)
Cape Sounion is a promontory located about 70 kms from Athens at the southernmost tip of the Attica peninsula. It is noted as the site of ruins of an ancient Greek temple of Poseidon, the god of the sea in classical mythology. The ruins bear the deeply engraved name of the English romantic poet Lord Byron.
According to legend, Cape Sounion is the spot where Aegeus, king of Athens leapt to his death off the cliff, thus giving his name to the Aegean Sea. His son (Theseus) forgot to hoist a white sail returning from Crete, after slaying the Minataur. Today Sounion is an upscale summer home location for Athenians and one of the most expensive areas in Greece.
MYCENAE
High on a hilltop yet hidden from view, and said to be erected with the aid of Cyclops is one of the greatest cities of the highly-developed Mycenaean civilisation (16-13 century BC). We entered through the Lion’s Gate which is said to be where the battle-weary Agamemnon was greeted by his wife on his return from the long war with Troy, only to be murdered by her lover.
We were given a wonderful lunch at the family owned Kalizeras restaurant before our next visit.
EPIDAURUS
In the 6th century BC this city was sacred to the god of medicine, Asclepius, reputed to be Apollo’s son. The medical facilities and healing treatments were immensely popular and today Epidaurus is a vast UNESCO World Heritage site with temples and hospital buildings. Most important is the theatre designed by the architect Polycletus. Over 14,000 seats are carved into the hillside and it is possible to hear a match strike on the stage from the highest tier. Some of our new friends practised their singing in the theatre.
NAUPLIA
Nauplia is on the eastern shores of the Peloponnese and was the first capital city of independent Greece in 1823. Today it is a very attractive town with old streets lined with Venetian and Ottoman buildings. The Akronafplia fortress has views down on to the red-tiled roofs of the old town and up to the awe-inspiring Palamidi Fortress. These are some of the most interesting and fascinating fortresses that you will ever visit, and their beauty is enhanced in spring by the wild flowers.
MONEMVASIA (meaning single entrance)
A favourite with honeymooners, this medieval Byzantine castle town is linked to the mainland by an isthmus. The only transport permitted is the mule. The streets are narrow, sometimes only wide enough for two people. There is the 13th century church of Christos Elkomenos (Christ chained to the cross) which holds several Byzantine icons, and for the more intrepid, there is a great climb up to an octagonal church of Agia Sofia. Even an 80 year old from our group with knee and hip replacements ventured up to Agia Sofia and marvelled at the view from the top. Malvasia (Malmsey wine) a sweet dessert wine comes from this area. Phyllo pastry tarts with spinach and aubergines are another speciality. The delightful wild flowers and orange blossoms were in bloom.
MYSTRAS (optional tour)
UNESCO World Heritage site Mystras served as the capital of the Byzantine Despotate of the Morea in the 14th and 15th centuries and was mistaken for ancient Sparta. The frescoes in the Peribleptos Church dating back to the 14th century are a very rare survival of the late Byzantine cycle, and crucial for the understanding of Byzantine art. Philosopher George Gemistos Plethon lived here until his death in 1472.
CRETE – HERAKLION
Constructed around 1900BC – Knossos is the oldest palace in Europe and scene of the legend of King Minos and his son, the half bull/half man myth known as the Minotaur. Knossos was the religious centre of the Minoan culture. Earthquakes and volcanoes in the vicinity have destroyed the original complex but in the late 19th century the amateur Victorian archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans attempted a restoration and did a remarkable job for his time.
CRETE – LASSITHI PLATEAU AND MALIA (optional tour)
The Lassithi plateau has soaring mountainous landscapes. Malia boasts the third largest palace of Minoan Crete, and the palace was a cultural centre of Minoan civilisation. Malia today has a fabulous beach and is known as a place to party.
CRETE – AGIOS NIKALAOS
This port is a picturesque resort dating back to the 3rd century and a Mediterranean yachting haven.
SANTORINI
The spectacular cliffs of Santorini rise from a great half-moon caldera – all that is left of the circular island once called Strongyle in 1600BC before the volcano erupted. We started our visit at the exquisite village of whitewashed houses called Oia, where blue-domed churches dot the skyline. From every direction the views are unique. We then visited Fira and the Prehistoric Museum of Santorini to see the golden calf and other valuable relics rescued from Akrotiri (a Minoan settlement on the island). Return to the ship from Fira was by cablecar.
RHODES – OLD TOWN
It is said that a statue of Colossus once straddled the port entrance of Rhodes, but now statues of a stag and doe have the same function. Rhodes is the largest of the Dodecanese group of islands and located at a strategic crossroads in the Aegean Sea. The Knights of St John of Jerusalem lived on the islands from the 14-16th century, and the Grand Master’s palace, the Knight’s Hospital (which houses the Archeological Museum) and the Street of the Knights are really interesting. This is another UNESCO world Heritage site.
RHODES – LINDOS (optional tour)
Half an hour from Rhodes along a road dotted with orange and lemon trees lies Lindos and the Acropolis. At the summit is the Doric temple of Lindian Athena dating from the 4th century. Lindos village is a favourite resort of writers, artists and craftsmen.
DELOS
This tiny deserted windswept island is the sacred centre of the Cyclades group of islands. It is the reputed birthplace of the god Apollo. There is an avenue of lions, an Agora (marketplace) and the sanctuary of Apollo. Leto is said to have given birth to the twin gods of Artemis and Apollo at Delos.
MYKONOS
Just a brief evening stop at this party island of whitewashed cubic houses with blue doors and window frames. Mykonos used to be a major seaport between Venice and Asia. Along the waterfront near the area called Little Venice, the seaside cafes are ideal for evening drinks.
SAMOS
This lush green wooded island is famed as the birthplace of Pythagoras, Aesop and Epicurus. We made our way to the Herion temple said to be the birthplace of Hera (Zeus’ jealous wife), before entering the Archeological Museum of Samos which is famed for its 5m marble free-standing ‘Kouros’ (tall marble male figure) dedicated to the god Apollo and dating from 580BC. We stopped at the wine museum – for a tasting or two of the sweet Muscat grape wines. Our Athens guide (Georgia) is now the guide at a newly opened museum (17 May 2010) in Pythagorio.
SKIATHOS
This was our last stop before returning to mainland Greece. Skiathos is the westernmost island in the Sporades group and famed for its splendid beaches and as being the location where “Mamma Mia’ was filmed. Dionysius (the god of wine) was worshipped here and probably still is, as this is one of the cosmopolitan party islands of Greece.
TURKEY KUSADASI – EPHESUS
Kusadasi is a flourishing port and the main gateway from the sea for the ancient sites of Ephesus and Aphrodisias. The cosmopolitan city of Ephesus was on a par with Athens and Rome in its heyday. Once home to 250,000 people and a seaside port, it now lies five kilometres inland and there is no shade from the burning sun. Over the centuries Ephesus was an ancient Greek city and a sacred centre to the Greek god Artemis (one of the seven wonders of the ancient world), a Roman stronghold (second largest city of the Roman Empire, ranking only behind Rome) with one of the most advanced aqueduct systems in the ancient world and a Christian centre (St Paul lived here, and the gospel of St John may have been written in Ephesus). Highlights include the library with its splendid columned façade, the Grand Theatre and the Temple of Hadrian.
KUSADASI – APHRODISIAS
Pistachios and pomegranates, melons and strawberries; fig, apricot, hazelnut and almond trees lined the road en route from Kusadasi to Aphrodisias. Apartment blocks with solar heating, breezeways under the roof, and clean streets are a lasting memory of this journey. Three hours drive from Kusadasi lies Aphrodisias one of the oldest sacred sites in Turkey, dedicated to the Greek goddess Aphrodite, and sacred since 5800BC. Said to rival Ephesus as the ‘most well-preserved ancient site in the world’, and surrounded by a marble quarry, it was the centre for Greek and Hellenistic sculpture for nearly 7 centuries. Monuments include a magnificent theatre, vast stadium and the remains of a great temple. During the Byzantine era Aphrodisias/Stavropolis, the temple of Aphrodite was turned into a Christian basilica. We had lunch at a local Turkish restaurant- the local beer was so much nicer than the home-made wine.
KEPEZ (near CANAKKALE) – TROY
The shores of the Dardanelles (Hellespont in ancient times) lead the way to the fabled city of Troy (in Homer’s Iliad). There is a somewhat fantastical giant replica of the Trojan horse at Troy.
KEPEZ (near CANAKKALE) – GALLIPOLI
A ferry from Kepez took us across the straits of the Dardanelles to Gallipoli and the moving memorials on the Gelibolu Peninsula where in World War I over 230,000 Allied and Turkish troops lost their lives in an 8-month campaign. A young Turkish colonel – Mustafa Kemal (later known as Ataturk) distinguished himself with honour and later became father of the Turkish Republic. We returned via Canakkale (where lies the film studio version of the Trojan horse). Canakkale is an important fishing and commercial harbour and a strategic military point.
ISTANBUL
Istanbul has been at the centre of things for centuries and is the only city that straddles both Europe and Asia. It is one of our favourite cities and although we have visited the bazaars, mosques, palaces and museums before, it really was good to see them again. Hagia Sofia (Holy Wisdom) now a magnificent museum used to be both a mosque and a Byzantine cathedral. The fabulous Blue Mosque with its six minarets and wonderful blue tiles, and Rusthem Pasha Mosque are certainly both worth a visit. Topkapi Palace with its famous 86 carat Spoonmaker diamond, and emerald dagger is extraordinary. The Egyptian Spice bazaar is fun, and the possibility of tourists being lost in the crowds in Istanbul quite probable.
Two members of our tour got lost, but they were quickly found by the tourist police.
The afternoon itinerary included the Hippodrome, Chora church and the Grand Bazaar. The following morning a Bosphorus cruise (optional tour) was arranged.
We had experienced many of these sights before, so in the afternoon made our own way downtown on the tram (just 1.50 TRY one way- whether it’s one stop or ten) and popped into the Orient Express hotel (not the location where Agatha Cristie wrote her famous thriller – that is called the Pera Palas and is currently under renovation) to visit family members and invite them back to see our cruise ship. The following day we strolled up from the port to the Dolmabahce Palace, stopped off at the Four Seasons Bosphorus hotel, took the funicular to Taksim Square then returned to the MV Aegean Odyssey for its lunchtime departure back to Greece.
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In conclusion:
We would really like to thank the Ground Operators in Greece, Inter-med. The staff were so professional (both in the Athens hotel ‘Grande Bretagne’ and at the port of Pireaus). The coaches were both clean and luxurious everywhere.
We would like to thank the staff of Voyages to Antiquity who worked so tirelessly to produce an incredibly interesting itinerary that we thoroughly enjoyed. They were obliged to alter some of the excursions according to the political situation in Greece etc. and managed to do this seamlessly. The tour guides that were used really brought the whole area to life, the coaches were clean and new.
MV Aegean Odyssey. The food on board was exceptional and the Filipino staff so welcoming. Complimentary wine at dinner certainly was the best way to relax at the end of the day, and contemplate all the wonderful things that we had experienced during the two weeks of the cruise. The ship seemed to glide through the water – it was very smooth.
The Romanian trio ‘Café Concerto Strings’ provided both soothing and exciting entertainment.
We are glad we chose this tour and would not hesitate to repeat the experience with another itinerary.
